A life with purpose.

Sit back, I'm going off topic today. A visit with a friend and a tone deaf blog post have collided to cause me to look inward about life.

Two nights ago we had a friend over for dinner to tell us about his recent trip. A two week trip got no more than 5 minutes of conversation. The rest of the 2 hours was filled with a rant about his health. My friend has a serious arthritic issue with his neck and has recently developed an intestinal problem. He has been going to the doctor but like a portion of our population he is wary of doctors and resorts to getting medical advice from friends and youtube videos. Yes, sad. He has stopped taking his medicine because he feels that it is causing him pain. The same pain that is causing him to take the medicine in the first place. He just doesn't see what is going on. His friends are telling him that doctors don't want to heal people, they are just in it for the money. The clerk at the health food store is practicing medicine with out a license and has convinced him to stop his medicine and take natural supplements. He is getting worse and worse, frequently going to the emergency room. I have talked to him and I worry for my friend.

Episode 2 was a recent blog post at a site that I regularly read. The author spent numerous paragraphs explaining his different personality. Then he got into the subject of his blog post. He felt that a person should change camera brands because a camera has been on backorder since it started shipping at the end of last summer. I initially just closed the tab and thought that was 5 minutes that I won't get back. But the I started to think about my friends visit. 

How do you determine that you are living a life of quality. It's easy to live a life of quantity. Amazon prime gets you anything in two days. Any knowledge you wish is just a few clicks away at Google. My friend is not living a quality life. He is suffering but worse yet he is the cause of some of his suffering. In my opinion the guy that wrote the blog post is not living a quality life. How can you have a life of quality when everything big and small is a struggle. Life is hard enough but is even harder when you are the cause of your own pain. Misplaced priorities are missed opportunities. 

So what does this have to do with photography? Rise above the weeds and look at the sky. Get out of you own way. There has to be a reason for creating the images that you make. Create images that have meaning. Create images that have feeling. The 2 people that I have talked about above have very different problems. One his life could be in danger if he doesn't make some real life altering choices. The second is disillusioned about what is important in life. Don't just do stuff. Live life. It's your choice, what are you going to do? 

How to remove a stuck filter from a lens.

Since going digital people don’t seem to use filters on their lenses as much as they used to. Say you want to use a glass ND filter on your lens. First you need to remove the UV filter, more surfaces cause image degradation. But since the UV filter has been on since you bought the lens it seems to be stuck. How to get it off? The first thing is to find a roll of gaffers tape. Lay the roll on a sturdy table. Take the lens off you camera. Stand the lens on the gaffers tape with the filter end down so it is resting on the roll of tape. Grab the lens firmly and press down and turn. The filter will be slightly pressed into to stickiness of the tape to hold it in place and will have enough grip to release the filter from the lens. This might take a few tries but it will come off. Make sure how have a good grip on the lens. You don’t want it sailing across the room  

This will not work if the lens has been dropped. You can email me on instructions on how to get a broken filter off, even if the glass is broken. That is not for the faint of heart, but is not hard. 

Tips for Leica M Photography

Operating a Leica M camera is similar to operating any other camera but there are a few additional precautions that can be taken to ensure quality photographs. Stay in touch with the basics of camera handling, they will pay off in the long run. Remember it is you that takes a photograph, not the camera. The camera only records an image. You are the creative part of the process.

1. Always keep the viewfinder window clean. Easier to compose and less glare.
2. A sharp and properly framed image can only be obtained by holding the camera correctly. None of this one handed stuff.
3. Focus with the camera horizontal and rotate to vertical if needed. It is just more natural that way.
4. Preset exposure before hand and just focus and compose at the moment of exposure. Be prepared.
5. Gently press the exposure button. Don't jab at it.
6. Always use a lens hood. Keeps the lens clean and protects the lens from stray light.
7. learn to shoot with both eyes open. Makes you aware of your surroundings and you see elements entering the frame.
8. When using wide-angle lenses, prefocus. Use depth of field to your advantage.
9. Don't carry too much equipment. Don't get bogged down with equipment.
10. Use large apertures. Isolates the subject.
11. Use continuous advance sparingly. Select the proper moment.
12. Practice holding the camera low and high. You never know when a different view will come in handy.
13. Use a tabletop tripod for slow shutter speeds. Brace the tripod against your chest.
14. A wide-angle lens stopped down is great for snap shooting.
15. Get close. Old advice but it is good advice.
16. Always carry a spare battery. no power=no photographs.

Get out there and take photographs. Your not a photographer if you don't make images.

Leica WLAN Function - Leica M10 WiFi Transfer

Info on the new Leica FOTOS app which replaces this article can be found here.

When Leica introduced the M10 in January of 2017 most of the updates to the camera were refinements of existing features. One of the new features was designed to address the needs of the Instagram age. With the ability to create or connect to a WiFi network Leica has added the ability to the M10 to transfer and upload images to an iPhone or IPad so the images can be transferred to a social media platform or sent to a recipient while still on location without the need of a computer. The M-APP is a native iPad program and works great.

There is no external WiFi button on the camera to turn on wireless networking. But since the M10 has the ability to make a “Favorites” menu there is no need to dive through all of the menu options. To activate the WiFi press the “Menu” button and scroll through the options to select the “WLAN” function. In the sub-menu switch function to on, in the same sub-menu select connect, and there either “Create WLAN” or “Join WLAN”. The “Create WLAN” is the easiest as this creates a WiFi network for a direct connection to the M10.

Network Set-up

The connection has to be set-up prior to actually creating the network. In the WLAN sub-menu, enter the camera name in SSID/Network Name (if desired). This is done in a keyboard sub-menu, exactly as described on p. 190 of the manual. Enter a network password at Password (if desired). This is also done in a keyboard sub-menu, as described.

Once the Leica M10 is ready to transfer images go to your smart device and select the cameras WiFi network that you have created. Launch the M-APP that can be downloaded from the Apple APP store or from the Google store. In the screen that is presented you will be asked if you wish to connect with the cameras network. Click yes and after a short time the app will connect. As a reminder the password for connecting to the camera WiFi network is easily retrieved, it is stored in the WLAN sub menu under the network name so that you can’t forget the password. 

Once connected to the camera you have 3 options for operating the camera. There is a Live View that enables you to take photos from a tablet or phone. You can browse the images on the camera and transfer them to your device.  And there is a wide range of settings that can be adjusted on the camera. 

Being able to transfer images from the M10 to a smart device is one of the useful features that Leica has added. The app is stable and very responsive. As expected using the WiFi feature does drain the battery faster, so you might want to keep a spare battery handy. 

The WLAN menu on the Leica M10

use “Function” to turn the WLAN feature on

creating a network

joining a network

next go to your smart device and select the Leica camera network

launching the M-APP

tap to search for the camera

tap to connect to camera

live view from the Leica M10

displaying images on the camera

customizing the camera and transfer settings

tap to disconnect

Leica M10 Review

The evolution of the digital M series camera is complete with the introduction of the Leica M10. What started with the Leica M8 in September 2006 and continued with the announcement of the Leica M9 in September 2009 to the Leica M(240) in September 2012 has culminated in the Leica M10. The Leica M10 is logical evolution of the wildly popular M(240). This is the camera that the Leica community has wanted since the announcement that Leica was going to port the rangefinder system to the digital world. 

After getting a feel for the camera and shooting some images that I took back to my Mac to inspect I added my name to the waiting list at the Hollywood Leica store. I was quoted 6 months before I would get my camera. I was surprised when just over 3 months later I received a message that my camera was ready for pickup. After a false start because of 2 small defects I picked up another camera and I stared testing my new camera. I still have my Leica M(240) so the M10 was my backup until I was comfortable with how it performed in different situations.

If you have ever handled a Leica M series camera before the first thing you will notice is how much smaller and lighter the camera is compared to previous Leica digital cameras. In fact the camera has the same thickness as the famous M4 from the 1960’s. The cameras dimensions are 139mm x 38.5mm x 80mm and weighs 660g. Compare this to the previous model the M(240) at 139mm x 40mm x 80mm and weighs 680g. It feels much smaller and lighter in the hand than the numbers make it sound. With the smaller size comes a smaller battery. I have always carried two batteries with my cameras so that is not that big of a deal. The M10 batteries are smaller and I been getting about 500-600 exposures per charge. Compare that to about 800 exposures with my M(240). I don't consider that a big deal, I have not had a problem getting through the day with 2 batteries.

In actual use the biggest surprise for me with the M10 has been the viewfinder. It is spec’d at 30% larger and in use it really is easier to use. I wear glasses and I don't have to shift my eye around to see the full frame when using wide angle lenses. I also seem to have a much higher rate of keepers because the camera really is easier to focus. The previous cameras have had viewfinder magnifications from .68 to .72 so the .73 on the M10 which gives a 50% increase in viewing distance which is great for eyeglass wearers. . It also is easier to see the 28mm frame lines. I zone focus frequently with wide angle lenses but I do most of my shooting with a 50mm in close so I actually focus the lens for most images. Most people are advised to use zone focusing all of the time when switching to Leica. I come from the days of film so I have lots of practice manually focusing. Even since the switch to autofocus I usually manually focus for portraits. 

At first glance the most obvious change to the M10 is the switch to a manual knob for setting the ISO. It is nice to know what the ISO is set at when picking the camera up but as far as changing the speed I prefer the old method of holing the ISO button and spinning the thumb wheel. The ISO knob is set by lifting from the base and the turning to the desired ISO. When I first got the camera I had some difficulty with the dial, turns out it is harder to pull up when grabbing at the top. Better to grab the base. The ISO dial indicates speeds from 100-6400. When going into the menus the speed can be changed up to 50000. I set the “M” to ISO 800, that is my sweet spot for high speed that still keeps the grain at a minimum and still has good IQ. 

The layout for the controls are pretty spartan on “M” cameras and the M10 is no different. Looking at the camera from the front the most obvious feature are the rangefinder windows. The Leica red dot is proudly placed in the top center but I usually use black tape top cover mine. The Lens selector arm has returned so that you can preview the frame lines for the different lenses. The lens release button is at the 9:00 position on the lens mount. The focus button for setting the exposure compensation and other features. On the top is the shutter release button, the on/off switch, the shutter speed dial, and the flash shoe and ISO dial. The back has the rotary dial, the 4 way pad with center button, the Menu/preview LCD, and the Live View, Play and Menu buttons. The bottom is removed to access the battery and the SD card. The SET and ISO buttons have been removed from the previous cameras which makes the back of the camera very minimalist. 

The camera uses a new sensor that is the same 24MP as the previous model but with the new second generation image processor gives a little better quality image. In my opinion the sensor is about 1 1/2 stops better than the previous M sensor. It is similar to the sensor in the Leica SL or the Leica Q and a vast improvement over the M9 CCD sensor. I really do like the look of the M10 sensor. It has a rich color fidelity and accurate skin tones. Much was recently made about the quality of the Leica sensor and how it compares to the Nikon, Canon and Fuji sensors. I agree it might be slightly behind but for me it is the whole package that counts the most and I simply prefer the Leica rangefinder system. 

The M10 has a lot of little refinements. It is better sealed against moisture and dust. It is not waterproof. It still has the Gorilla Glass the protects the LCD. The Menu system can now be organized into favorites. When I go into the menus it seems that I only change a handful of settings so this has turned out to be a real timesaver. Wi-Fi connectivity is now an option for transferring images and controlling the camera. The LEICA M-App is available for iOS and Android. The app runs on the iPad natively and is smooth to work with. Live view and focus peaking have been refined for a better experience. The on/off switch has eliminated the “C” option for continuous shooting which can be modified in the menus. Leica has chosen to remove video recording from the Leica M10. I personally think this is a good decision. Video recording is just not something I want to do with a rangefinder camera. I have dedicated cameras for video and I just don't see a M10 user wanting to record video. 

In use the camera is responsive and produces excellent images. With the image buffer increased to 2GB you can get 30-40 raw images before the buffer slows the camera down. I like that there are only 3 function buttons on the camera. This streamlines the look of the camera and makes it feel more like a Leica experience. Yes some wish that Leica had gone to a 36MP sensor. I'm happy with 24MP. More slows more computer down and 24MP is just fine for prints up to 24 x 36. The M10 is so much lighter than the M(240) that when I carry one on each shoulder I subconsciously know which side is which, the M10 feels that much lighter. And after a long day that adds up. But enough of the camera functions, how about the results. the M10 files are easy to work with. As with all of the Leica digitals, don't overexpose. Leica files seem to like a little under-exposure. I have been printing my M10 files on my new Epson P800 and I must saw I am impressed. The prints are sharp with saturated colors. 

Now for the question that previous Leica owners want answered. Should you update to the M10. For M9 owners I say it is an easy choice, yes. The M10 CMOS sensor is a big improvement over the M9 CCD sensor. For M(240) owners it is a tough choice. The M(240) is still a fantastic camera. Only you can make that call. For anyone wanting to jump on the Leica bandwagon, I say go for the M10 and a 35mm or 50mm summicron. You cant go wrong with that combination. 

My first digital camera - Kodak DCS 200

Recently I was asked what my first digital camera was. It was the Kodak DCS 200. I started using this camera back in 1994. This was really the bleeding edge of photography technology at the time. It was made by Kodak but was based on a film body, the NIKON 8008S. At the time my main body was a Nikon F4 and I had a N8008s as a backup. 

The Kodak DCS 200 images were a massive 1.54MP each. Not much by todays standards but it was incredible back in the mid 90's. The Nikon body and the Kodak back were 2 completely separate pieces. The body could be easily separated from the back and a standard film back could be attached and the camera could shoot film again. Also this is before there were LCD’s on the back to check focus and exposure. It was common to return from a shoot and see my images come up on the screen and they would be purple or black because of the buggy software. Images that were missing because of a hardware error was also a common problem. A Kodak dye sublimation printer was hooked up to my Mac workstation for producing 8 x 10 prints. The prints were limited by the low resolution of the camera but they got the job done. 

I took to digital like a fish to water. I had a great deal of experience at custom printing color and B&W negatives. I am still comfortable in total darkness, kinda miss the old days. As much as I miss the nostalgia of film once you got a taste of digital it was obvious the film workflow was limited. With analog imaging making a comeback I have jumped on the bandwagon and I occasionally shoot film and have been shooting a lot of polaroid.  

If you have less then ten years in photography you might have trouble realizing just how the early days of digital were so earth shattering. Being able to have a print just a few minutes after a shoot was unbelievable. But I must say the equipment was very unreliable. Batteries never seemed to last as long as advertised. One of my cameras the battery would occasionally go from full to dead in seconds. The hard drives in the cameras always seemed to have bad blocks of data that ruined the images. 

If you have a digital camera that is over 10 years old I say get it out and shoot a few images with it and compare it to your latest camera. We have come a long way in a short period of time.  

The Polaroid Project - A Book Review

I have had a life long fascination with the Polaroid image. I have taken tens of thousands of Polaroid images. From I.D. images to work prints for drawings, proofs for view cameras, vacations, artistic images, and for all of the times that an image was needed at the moment before digital.

Since instant photography seems to be making a comeback this book has excellent timing. It is called The Polaroid Project. There are lots of examples of the great work that has been done with Polaroid film over the years. Seeing the mock-ups of pre-production cameras is fascinating. It is great to see the rebirth of Polaroid from the Impossible Project to the present day Polaroid Original. This is definitely one the better books on the history of photography and I highly recommend purchasing this throughly researched and enjoyable book.

Photography - An Image with Purpose

Bolsa Chica Ecological Reserve

The image above is not supposed to work. There is no strong point of interest. The gray scale only extends to about a middle grey. The blacks lack detail. No highlights. No specular highlights. 

Photography has has changed so much since I started in the 70’s. Strong vibrant colors were expected. Black and white images were expected to have a tonal range from deep black to whites that showed detail. I attended a photography program and a well exposed negative was the most important part of the image making process. From there a final print with a wide tonal range was exhibited. Composition was rigidly taught. But somewhere clinical photography started to fade away in my personal work.

My image above has lots of mood. Leading lines are there for composition but they don’t lead to a defined subject. The light gap at the end of the walkway is a compositional element that is indifferent. The side rails are void of detail but you look for detail anyway. The wet planks that are walked on are not well defined, almost having an ethereal presence to them. Notice the faint grey band where the horizon should be giving depth to the image. The two dark circles at the right edge of the shoreline. What are they? Notice the “V” that extends into the shoreline and how it mirrors the walkway. No ripples in the water enhance the feeling of solitude. Without ever being there you know that there was complete silence when the image was made. The shutter being activated was the only sound. 

Look at some of your recent images. How do they “feel”. Did you have a purpose for the image. What are you trying to say. So much imagery in the world that has nothing to say. Look deeper into yourself. Express what is inside.  

Photography Book of the Year 2017

This was a great year for photography books. I purchased more photography books this year than any year since I started in photography. The quality of books from the smaller presses is unbelievable. These are my favorite books that have a bias toward street photography but some are not strictly street photography books. At the end is my book of the year. It is a reprint from the 1980's and just might be my favorite photography book of all time.

Susan Bernstine Absence of Being

Susan Bernstine

This book was published in 2016 but was not widely available until this year. Fantastic Art photography. She makes her own cameras. 

Henri Cartier-Bresson Interviews

Henri Cartier-Bresson

Thoughts on photography by the master of street photography.

Teju Cole Blind Spot

Teju Cole

Possibly the most popular writing about photography this year.

Alec Soth Sleeping by the Mississippi

Alec Soth

A reprint but one the best books of the last 20 years.

Nancy Rexroth Iowa

Nancy Rexroth

Holga photos taken in Iowa and throughout the midwest. It's great that this work is back in print.

Ernst Haas Color Correction

Ernst Haas

Fantastic color work from the golden age of Leica photography.

Provoke Between Performance and Photography

Provoke

Japanese street photography from the 1960's.

Jack Spencer This Land

Jack Spencer

Street and scenic views of America.

FAN HO Hong Kong Yesterday

Fan Ho

Incredible Photography. If you are a street photographer this is the kind of work to aspire to.

Gene Smith's Sink

Sam Stephenson

The story of a photographers photographer.

Masahisa Fukase Ravens

Masahisa Fukase

This is my vote for the best photography book of 2017. First printed in the late 1980's it has been reprinted but always sells out quickly. Grab this while it is available. It is a book of mostly bird photos but that description is misleading. There is so much emotion in this book. Sadness, Solitude, Loneliness. Your images should strive to connect with the viewer, this book does it masterly. A classic collection of images, maybe the best of the last 50 years.

Large Format Photography

How’s this for an example of the evolution of photography. On the left is an image taken with a Sinar 8 X 10 studio view camera and on the right is an iPhone 8.  

I used to love shooting with my Sinar. I had an 8 X 10 model that also had a 4 X 5 back that I could switch to when shooting “small” format. With the 8 X 10 the standard lens was a 300mm and for the 4 X 5 I used 3 lenses, a 210mm short telephoto, 150mm normal, and a 90mm wide angle. The controls on a Sinar are so precise it is like using a medical device. Photographing with a view camera makes you use different switches and gears in your head. The image is upside down and reversed and you hold a dark cloth over your head to see the image and focus. A small lupe is held up to the ground glass for focusing. Quite different to the autofocus cameras of today. The sheets of film were loaded in complete darkness into the film holders. The film had notches that had to go into the correct corner to ensure the film was loaded properly. When I started in the studio we had hot lights so I had to deal with long exposures and I had to use gels to correct the lights to the film color balance. Later I switched to Broncolor studio lights which made life a lot easier. Shooting large format cameras in the studio is a lot of work. High end product work is difficult but can be creatively and financially rewarding. I do miss the old days of photography. I have so much knowledge from this era that has little use today. I would love to shoot or teach how to use Sinar cameras but there seems to be little demand for this kind of work. Not every aspect of film photography was the best especially when considering the cost, quality and time when compared with the digital workflow but I still miss those days.